Livorno, TUS – Oliviero Toscani, the groundbreaking photographer behind Benetton’s iconic and controversial ad campaigns of the 1980s and 1990s, died on Monday. He was 82
Toscani, known for his fearless creative vision that challenged societal norms and sparked heated debates, died at the Cecina hospital in Livorno, Tuscany. His wife, Kirsti, and their three children confirmed the news in a heartfelt statement: “It is with immense pain that we announce that our beloved Oliviero has undertaken his next journey.”
Toscani had been battling amyloidosis, a rare and progressive disease characterized by a buildup of abnormal protein deposits in the body. Last year, he revealed that he had lost nearly 40 kilograms due to the illness. In a candid interview with Corriere della Sera, he shared that while he didn’t know how long he had left to live, he was not interested in prolonging life under such difficult circumstances. He faced his illness with the same boldness that defined his career, saying he wished to be remembered “not for any one photo, but for my whole work, for the commitment.”
Toscani’s work redefined the boundaries of advertising photography, blending art with political and social commentary. He famously collaborated with United Colors of Benetton, creating ad campaigns that shocked, inspired, and ignited conversations around the world. From a photo of the pope kissing an imam on the lips to a nun embracing a priest, Toscani’s work for Benetton used stark, often jarring imagery to promote messages of diversity, tolerance, and social justice. Among his most memorable images was that of a black woman breastfeeding a white baby, an image that stirred both admiration and outrage as it challenged racial norms.
Toscani’s creative philosophy was clear: “Any picture is a political image, so we make our choice and we go for the real thing,” he told The Associated Press during a 1997 shoot of a Benetton campaign featuring Jews and Arabs living peacefully together in Israel. His refusal to conform, his willingness to provoke, and his desire to reflect reality—however uncomfortable—defined his approach to art. “You might have to face criticism,” he added, “A lot of people don’t like things that are different. Everybody likes to conform. We don’t conform.”
Despite his immense success and influence, Toscani’s decades-long partnership with Benetton came to an abrupt and controversial end in 2020. His relationship with the brand, which had been rekindled in 2018 after flourishing from 1982-2000, was severed after Toscani made a deeply insensitive remark in response to the 2018 Genoa bridge collapse that claimed 43 lives. While speaking on RAI television, Toscani stated, “Who cares about a bridge collapse?” in reference to a photograph of political protestors alongside Benetton family members. His comment outraged the victims’ families and the public, forcing Toscani to issue a public apology. He later expressed deep remorse, saying, “I am ashamed to apologize. I am humanly destroyed and deeply pained.” However, the damage had been done, and Benetton ended their professional relationship.
Despite the controversy, Toscani’s impact on the world of photography and advertising remains undeniable. Benetton paid tribute to him in a social media post, stating, “Farewell, Oliviero. Keep on dreaming,” accompanied by his 1989 photograph of a hand offering a bouquet of flowers.
Toscani was born in Milan on February 28, 1942, to a photojournalist father who worked for Corriere della Sera. He studied photography and graphics at the University of the Arts in Zurich from 1961 to 1965 and began his career working with prestigious fashion publications like Vogue Italia. Over the years, Toscani shot campaigns for major brands such as Chanel, Fiorucci, Esprit, and Robe di Kappa. However, it was his work with United Colors of Benetton that truly made him a household name, raising the brand’s global profile with his provocative and often controversial imagery.
Beyond fashion, Toscani tackled significant social issues. He addressed the AIDS crisis with a powerful campaign that included a striking portrait of AIDS activist David Kirby on his deathbed, surrounded by his family. In 2007, he reignited discussions around anorexia in the fashion industry with his “No Anorexia” campaign for Italian brand Nolita, featuring the haunting image of skeletal model Isabelle Caro. His campaigns often focused on issues like road safety, violence against women, and even stray dogs, showcasing his wide-ranging commitment to activism.
Oliviero Toscani leaves behind a legacy of art, courage, and uncompromising vision. His work will continue to inspire and challenge future generations to see beyond the surface, to ask difficult questions, and to embrace the power of imagery in changing the world.